In the heart of Madeira, the Levada do Caldeirao Verde hike is, in our opinion, one of the best on the island. The trail passes through the Laurissilva Forest, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and through tunnels dug in the 16th century. You’ll discover panoramic views, and a beautiful waterfall nestled in lush natural surroundings. Whether you’re a seasoned hiker or a lover of pretty strollss, we recommend you discover this remarkable itinerary.
Here are some useful tips for planning your hike along Madeira’s Levada do Caldeirao Verde.
This opinion is completely independent, based on our experiences. We made our own choices, visited the area anonymously, and paid our bills in full.
Tour summary and map
- Distance: 13km round trip.
- Duration: 5h30 round trip.
- Difficulty: this route is of moderate difficulty.
The path is flat and sometimes narrow, there are a few steps and the tunnels can be dark, so don’t forget your flashlight! If you wish to continue to the Cascade Caldeirao do Inferno, there are steps along the way. - Ascent: 1,350m
- Option: Add 4.5km and approx. 2h round trip if you wish to continue to the Caldeirao do Inferno waterfall. Check trail conditions before setting off, here.
Is the Levada de Caldeirao Verde hike worth it? Our review
Absolutely! The Levada do Caldeirao Verde (PR9) is one of Madeira’s best hikes. We loved the verdant setting, where you can observe the lush, endemic flora lining the path. The path leads to the Cascade de Caldeirao Verde. This hike is far from boring; the route is punctuated by tunnels hidden among damp rock faces and vegetation. If you wish, you can even complete this exploration with a loop to the beautiful Caldeirao do Inferno waterfall. We recommend this hike to discover one of Madeira’s most beautiful Levadas.
To explore it at your leisure, opt for a half-day guided tour!
Our favorite moments:
- Crossing the Laurissalva Forest, a UNSECO World Heritage site
- Take the path along the Levada and discover one of these famous historic irrigation canals!
- Adventure in dark, damp tunnels! For a moment, we put ourselves in the shoes of Indiana Jones!
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What are the difficulties?
There are no major difficulties on this route. The path is flat and sometimes narrow, with a few steps and dark tunnels. When crossing it, be careful not to bump into anyone and don’t forget your flashlight! At the start of the route, in the forest, we saw roots on the path. Watch your step so you don’t fall. Finally, if you wish to continue on to the Caldeirao do Inferno waterfall, there are steps along the way.
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Access
Where to find Levada do Caldeirao Verde – map
- In the north of the island, near Santana, in the Parque Florestal de Quiemadas.
- From Funchal or Sao Vincente about 40min drive.
- From Porto da Cruz: 20min
Access by car and parking
The official start is located near the Forest House in the Parque Florestal das Queimadas. It can be reached by following the Caminho das Queimadas road for about 3km after passing Santana. This part of the road is single-lane with crossing zones.
You’ll then need to park in the parking lot at the end of the road. There is a charge for this (max €3 for one day). There’s also a café and toilets.
OUR TIPS FOR RENTING YOUR CAR AT Madeira
- Compare prices on our preferred platform: DiscoverCars – one of the best rated sites.
- Take a car with a good engine for hilly roads, but not too big for manoeuvring.
- There’s plenty of demand and few cars, so book early.
Public transport access
It is not possible to get to the start of the hike by public transport. However, you can take a bus to a nearby town and then take a cab.
You can also opt for a guided tour with transfer included – see price, program and booking.
Useful tips
How long
This itinerary is between 13 and 18km and takes between 5h30 and 7h30 depending on your route:
- If you wish to make the detour to the Cascade de Risco, this adds around 4.5km and 2h round trip. Check trail conditions before setting off, here.
- Otherwise, the hike will be 13km and take around 5h30.
Best moment
We think that for this itinerary, the sooner the better! Indeed, as hiking is one of the main activities on Madeira, the Levada do Caldeirao Verde is quite popular. The trail can be quite busy, which is not very pleasant. Especially on narrow passages or in tunnels. We decided to hike at dawn, so we had the first look at the path and the waterfalls. A quiet walk before the crowds and the heat arrive. You can also decide to walk at the end of the day, but make sure you come back before nightfall!
The meaning of hiking
This hike is a round trip, so there’s no sense in choosing.
We find the round-trip format practical if you don’t feel up to doing the whole hike. In fact, you can turn back at any time.
Hiking with children
For adventurous families, this picturesque walk offers a memorable excursion and allows children to discover Madeira’s nature and history. However, they won’t be able to run to their heart’s content in the dark tunnels or on the path, which is quite narrow. We recommend that you exercise caution in open-air areas such as this. The ground can be slippery, uneven or along cliffs. In spite of this, we think that well-supervised children will love the lush nature of the Isle of Flowers. They can also cool off by dipping their hands in the Levada throughout the adventure! Don’t forget to tell them the story of this unique waterway (see next article).
First stage: follow the signs to the village of Santana
To reach the starting point of the hike, you’ll have to pass through the village of Santana. In our opinion, this charming town is worth a visit for its picturesque triangular thatched houses, which have become emblematic of the region. But also for its nature: Santana and the surrounding area were designated a Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO in 2011. After your hike, or at any other time during your stay, we recommend a visit to this village to immerse yourself in its rich natural and cultural heritage.
Returning to the PR9 hike, which takes in the Levada do Caldeirao Verde, it starts in the Queimadas Forest Park. To get there, go past the forest house on the path beside it. It will take you to the entrance of Madeira’s primary forest: the magnificent Laurissilva Forest. On the way, you’ll come across signs for “Caldeirao Verde”. Follow them and they’ll lead you to the levada.
Entrance to the UNESCO-listed Laurissilva Forest
The walk begins in a green setting: the Laurissilva Forest, guardian of a priceless environmental heritage. The Queimadas forest park is one of its “gateways”. This subtropical rainforest, some 20 million years old, is home to species endemic to the island, as well as numerous cedars, beeches, ferns and laurels. We enjoyed stepping inside and admiring the thick green walls lining the path.
The many flowers added a touch of cheerfulness and color to the start of our hike! When we saw the wealth of plant species found in this forest, we understood why it was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999. It is also rich in wildlife, but this is hidden far from the path taken by humans. We discovered that this ecosystem is home to many trees of the Lauraceae family, to which the Laurissilva Forest owes its name.
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Walk along the Levada do Caldeirao Verde
Once you’ve completed the first part of the trail, you’ll finally discover the famous Levada do Caldeirao Verde! One of Madeira’s typical traditional canals! As you travel along it, remember that this ingenious irrigation system, which winds its way through the mountains over 2000km, dates back to the 16th century. This masterpiece of engineering bears witness to the island’s history and to human adaptation in the face of geographical challenges. Water had to be channelled from the rainy north-west of the island to the drier south-east, which was more suitable for human settlement and cultivation. Their construction was tedious due to Madeira’s topography, which required the integration of 40km of tunnels to allow water to cross the mountains.
The path along the river is very pleasant to walk, despite the narrow passages where you need to be careful, especially with children. In places, you’ll discover a beautiful canopy in the shape of an arch, bringing shade, coolness and magic to this walk. We loved the views over the lush valley. No need to worry about your progress, as a guardrail is installed where the path borders the cliff. The trail is flat, punctuated here and there by steps and tunnels…
Adventure in the Levada tunnels
As mentioned above, the island’s topography made it difficult to build irrigation canals. So tunnels had to be dug. You’ll be lucky enough to cross 4 of them on this ride! We draw your attention to this part of the hike: please be vigilant. Some tunnels are quite narrow, so be careful not to hurt your head. Water can also make the ground slippery, so we recommend you wear good shoes.
Finally, you’ll need to carry a flashlight in your bag to light your way through some dark tunnels. Failing that, your phone’s torch mode should do the trick. As we walked through these holes in the rock, we imagined just how difficult it must have been to create them using 16th-century methods.
Arrival at the Caldeirao Verde waterfall
After your adventure in Madeira’s tunnels, it’s time to discover the Caldeirao Verde waterfall! Leave the 4 rocky corridors behind and continue along the Levada. You will finally reach the waterfall, indicated by a sign about 100m upstream.
Did you know? Caldeirao Verde means green cauldron in Portuguese. When we discovered the waterfall and the cavity in which it flows, we understood the reason for the name. In fact, the large shaft that houses the waterfall is almost entirely covered with moss and other flora, giving it a lovely green hue. The lush ambience of this little corner of greenery and freshness seduced us.
Optional detour to Caldeirao do Inferno
During our visit, we had the opportunity to extend our walk to the Caldeirao do Inferno waterfall. It’s a beautiful waterfall that caresses a lush rock face! To get there, the route is similar to that leading to the Caldeirao Verde waterfall. You’ll have to walk along the levada, over a few steps and through a few tunnels, some of whose entrances drip with water. Rain gear can come in handy!
However, at the time of writing (July 2024), the trail has been fenced off and is certainly no longer maintained. Consult the trail conditions here. We have noted that some sites or testimonials claim to have crossed the barrier to use the trail in spite of everything. We do not recommend that you do so. Indeed, it is for the safety of visitors that hiking trails are sometimes closed. In our opinion, there’s already enough to do on Madeira’s trails to risk an accident on a closed route. Unfortunately, misadventures have already befallen inquisitive hikers. If you love walking, check out our selection of the 12 best hikes in Madeira to plan your next adventure!
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